Experts Retrieve 170-Year-Old Champagne From Baltic Shipwreck — Reveal Its Weird Taste

The cardinal rule of a good wine is that the older it gets, the better it tastes. It is not unusual for sommeliers to store champagne for decades, so that they can create a premium experience for their customers. In 2010, the legacy of champagne moved further back when divers got their hands on an exquisite collection, stored safely in a shipwreck under the Baltic Sea, according to Smithsonian Magazine. Findings regarding this collection were published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

Examinations revealed that the champagne collection was around 170 years old. They were spotted in a trade schooner sunk 160 feet below the surface. In total, there were 168 bottles, all of which were in near-perfect condition. Analysis showcased that even after a century, some of the champagne could still be consumed by individuals.

Researchers determined by the collection's age that it was the world's oldest drinkable champagne, according to BBC. Experts speculate that some of the champagne is still of good quality because of the cold and dark conditions it was stored. The champagne appears to have been made by Juglar and Veuve Clicquot around 1840.

To understand how these champagnes tasted after 170 years, the team associated with the study analyzed samples from three bottles in the collection, according to IFL Science. Initial responses were not positive. Researchers described the taste as 'reduction,' 'wet hair,' 'animal notes,' and sometimes 'cheesy.' The reception changed when the champagne was given some time to rest in the open air. The team swirled the liquid in the glass to facilitate oxygenation, which in turn dramatically changed its taste. The study described the new flavor as "empyreumatic, grilled, spicy, smoky, and leathery, together with fruity and floral notes."

Researchers also compared the samples with modern-day counterparts produced by the same manufacturer, Veuve Clicquot, according to Smithsonian Magazine. The comparison showcased that the Baltic champagne had lower alcohol content and higher sugar levels. The team believes that these changes are a consequence of the production process and conditions being different in the past. In that period, yeast used in the champagne production was not as effective as it is now, and the colder average climate in play inhibited grape maturation. Both of these could be factors behind the low alcohol content. Furthermore addition of sweetened syrup, that used to take place at the end of the 19th century champagne manufacturing also possibly diluted the wine and lowered the alcohol content.

As far as high sugar content is concerned, researchers believe it could be the result of the high amount of sugar that was typically added by 19th-century manufacturers to specifically sweeten the liquid. "Today, most champagnes contain low levels of sugar that are added at the end of the process,"  Philippe Jeandet, a professor of food biochemistry at the University of Reims, said. "The Baltic wine we analyzed contained at least 140 grams of sugar per liter, as compared to about 6 to 8 grams per liter used today."

The champagne also exhibited high levels of iron, copper, sodium, and chlorine. Researchers believe that elevated quantities of iron and copper could be attributed to the vessels where the liquids were stored. The metal vessels, along with the copper sulfate that was sprayed on the vineyards for disease control, possibly led to the infiltration of iron and copper in the champagne. Sodium and chlorine could be present because of the salt that was used in the champagne making. Even today, salt is used in champagne making, but the addition happens after blending, which considerably decreases sodium levels. 

Such discoveries can possibly help experts in understanding the potential of deep-sea aging, according to IFL Science. Deep-sea aging is a method that is being increasingly used worldwide to enhance the taste of wines. It has long been known that a champagne's taste gets enhanced when stored at a steady temperature and protected from light. Several sommeliers speculate that these conditions could be present deep under water. There have been reports of many people aging their wine in the Atlantic Ocean. These findings aid experts in estimating the impact of underwater conditions on wine. 

To understand the phenomenon, Veuve Clicquot and the island of Silverskär have collaborated to conduct an experiment called  'Cellar in the Sea,' stated BBC. In this examination, experts in the next four decades will regularly analyze the champagne samples to figure out the molecular changes during the process of aging under water.